dog behavior training

Positive reinforcement is one of the most popular modern methods of training your dog. It basically means rewarding good behavior and ignoring bad behavior. It works very well, confirming that ignoring your pet dog is one of the most effective methods of communicating your disapproval. Repeating and being consistent with positive reinforcement methods achieves results.

One of the best aspects of positive reinforcement is that it enables your dog to learn almost of its own accord and through this the appropriate behavior seem to be learned so much more effectively. Beyond the simple idea, there are several techniques for rewarding and ignoring that are worth familiarising yourself with.

Use meaningful rewards

The most effective rewards are treats and physical affection. Too many treats might lead to an overweight dog but also become boring for a dog after a while. So do simple pats on the head, so variation should be included in order to maintain your dog’s interest and motivation to improve again in future. Dogs like being stroked on their back near the tail, and on their chest. Scratching near the ears also appeals to most dogs. These are just examples of ways to vary the reward; others include favourite toys, ball chasing, etc.

Time things properly

Required behavior will be much more quickly understood by your dog if you ensure that rewards or positive signals are given at just the right moment, immediately following the correct behavior. A positive verbal sound or gesture will work if timed right, but clickers are also highly appropriate here. A separate post will follow about clicker training.

Be consistent

Positive reinforcement lends itself to planning and preparation, especially because it can be done in short bursts until it becomes part of your natural day-to-day interaction with your dog. Part of the planning is to be clear from the outset which commands and gestures you want your dog to understand and then consistently train using them.

Ignoring is a technique

A key aspect of being consistentwith this process is for the trainer (you) to understand that the negative reaction of ignoring means precisely that. The failure to react at all to the poor behavior registers with your dog. A negative reaction also registers and some dogs will seek that rather than total ignoring in order to get any kind of interaction with you. Showing no reaction also emphasises the effect of the positive reaction you give for good behavior, so uncomfortable as it may seem to some pet owners, ignoring is the right thing to do.

Staffordshire Bull Terriers, or Staffies to their friends, are often thought to be pit bull terriers and get an undeserved reputation as a result. They are exceptionally strong for their size and can be challenging to train, but if trained correctly from young, they make superb family dogs. The usual behaviors that need attention early if they are to be corrected quickly are:

Staffordshire Bull Terrier

• Pulling on the leash, relentlessly if allowed
• Aggression towards other dogs, trying to be “top dog”
• Sometimes foolhardy in the pursuit of their objective
• NEVER let them start fighting other dogs - it could prove very costly

They are naturally very friendly towards humans, as with other breeds unless trained otherwise. A few general points are relevant to training Staffordshire Bull Terriers:

1. Like all terriers they are attention-seekers, which means, used appropriately with this breed, ignoring them can work well; however, in my experience there is hardly ever a need for this if the other tips advised here are applied consistently.
2. They take to a general daily routine very easily if not too rigid. Getting into a routine quickly will contribute towards training success.
3. Food is a real driver with this breed; coupled with their mammoth capacity for exercise, when young, food treats work very well as rewards.
4. Don’t have too high an expectation of them at the outset. By keeping things simple and focusing on the basics in short sessions, the training process will be much easier.
5. Invest in a chest halter! A traditional lead will work with some, and with most Staffies it will work some of the time, but if he gets into pursuit mode, all kinds of problems can ensue.

Parts II and III of this post will go into more specific training techniques for the Staffordshire Bull Terrier.

Dalmatians are very energetic, strong and require a firm hand when training. Training from as early a stage as possible is particularly important with Dalmatians. Once trained they make fabulous pets, especially for families and when well-exercised, but if not trained correctly early they can develop stubborn traits.

To get the best out of Dalmatians, training should make use of their natural characteristics while also being alert to which behaviors need to be held in check. They are always eager to run around at top speed, so chasing balls and strong frisbees is a popular occupation, which should be maximized during the training process, for example by letting them chase around but encouraging the desired coimmands and behaviors before and after the run. Conversely, their natural tendency to chase things such as animals has to be discouraged and controlled.

Dalmatians are highly alert to their keepers, intelligent so trainable more easily than some breeds, but often excitable. Long energetic walks are required and ideally a good opportunity to run every day, possibly by the keeper using a bicycle. Dalamations were historically used to run alongside horse-drawn coaches as they could then use their energy and were adept at not running under the wheels or troubling the horses while engaged in this way.

The breed needs socializing with other dogs from an early age; if not, they can become aggressive to other dogs when older. They are very good with children if able to get used to them from puppy stage, but need to be supervised as they are extremely friendly, strong and often boisterous. As the children grow, this high-energy dog makes a great companion.

For help with training your Dalmatian, click here. Enjoy!

A healthy dog is easier to train, and as diet is very important to health then a good diet will support your training process. A common ratio for an appropriate dog diet is 40% meat, 30% vegetables and 30% starch.

A good quality dry dog food should be a key constituent in what you feed your dog. It helps both offset the cost of meat and starts to balance the diet. Dog foods are labelled with a list of ingredients, with the highest proportions listed first, through to the smallest at the end.

In the “Ingredients” or “Typical Analysis” section described on the packaging, a good dog food will have little, and in many cases, no “waste” animal content, which are sometimes described as “by-products”. These products are often unfit for human consumption. Any dog food that does have waste or by-products in any sizeable amount should really be avoided. It might be cheaper and the products themselves do not necessarily make the product dangerous, but they do carry higher long-term risk to muscles, bones, coats and the general health of dogs, especially if a part of their regular daily intake.

A number of points pertinent to achieving the 40/30/30 ratio:

• Meat - Lamb, beef and chicken provide protein, good for healthy coats and musculature. As an aside, it’s a bad idea to let dogs, cats and similar pets have chicken bones as they splinter easily and can cause choking.
• Vegetables - carrots and greens are a good balance for dog nutrition, providing the vitamins and minerals essential to good bone development. They also provide the right levels of hormone and enzyme for good health. I’ve always found that different individual dogs are partial to a particular vegetable but don’t like others, which is useful to explore when assessing what to feed your dog.
• Starch - the usual provider of this for a dog is brown or white rice, though not in too large a quantity, especially not in an older dog. Starch provides the carbohydrates to build energy and maintain strength.

Some breeds are often stated to be sensitive to certain foods but this varies in individual dogs. There will also be exceptions when a dog is unhealthy for a little while.

Small amounts of water can be added to dry food to make it more palatable for some dogs.

The sheen on your dog’s coat, the state of its eyes and what is coming out at the other end are the most easy indicators to allow you to assess your dog’s health, but a balanced diet helps provide these. Spending just a little more on better food for your pet is worth it in the long term.

Aggression in dogs is a huge subject due to the variety of behaviors and situations in which it can arise. This post considers two examples of the less severe forms of aggressive dog behavior.

• Food aggression - this can vary in its degree, ranging from not letting anyone near its food while it eats to being very aggressive if she thinks you are going to take it. In the most serious cases, aggression about food isn’t the only aggressive trait, but because eating is one of a dog’s greatest pleasures, its importance can often be the only area in which it exhibits such signs. ”Pack leader” status is inherent in food to a dog, so in mild cases it is important to continue interrupting her eating at various times so that she becomes more comfortable, rather than let the situation develop. In more serious cases the situation can be turned around by a range of actions ranging from adding food while she’s eating, establishing that she gets fed after the family have had their food, through to feeding in stages ensuring that there are interruptions. It can take time so that the training  evolves through each stage.
• Play-biting by an adult dog. Play-biting is natural in a puppy and can usually be overcome most simply by you over-reacting, for example with a squeal then turning away, at the level of the activity at which you wish to set the limit. This is similar to the treatment it would receive from a more dominant puppy when young ….without the normal bite it would receive as well! So it registers what is not acceptable. An adult dog that continues to play-bite has normally missed such correction either by the owner or possibly because it was removed from the litter at too early a stage. Physical force will only encourage her in many cases. The better reaction is to substitute a dog chew or toy. The cold-shoulder treatment is also effective. In the case of slightly more severe biting, a sharp “No” or an appropriate command that she is familiar with should be added. Praise should also be tagged on, but only at the point when it will be clear to her that the praise is for her improved behavior.

If you’d like to know more about dog aggression now, click here.

The numerous varieties of spaniel can be broadly grouped into three types, each of which contains various breeds:

• Cocker Spaniels
• Springer Spaniels
• Toy Spaniels

All spaniels are naturally very enthusiastic, positive and fun-loving. Their high energy levels mean that they can get bored if inactive and start to cause problems. They will normally pick up basic training easily at first, but it is advisable, especially with the Cocker Spaniel and Springer Spaniel, to spend a little longer than normal on the basic training and if possible to then move onto more advanced training, to which they will react very well, in order to make the best use of their energy. Fun training is definitely to be recommended with these athletic dogs.

These dogs were originally bred for tracking, flushing out and retrieving game birds. They can have an independent streak and given the chance they will catch a scent and go hunting on their own if not well-trained early in their lives.

The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel and the King Charles Spaniel (also known as the English Toy Spaniel) are very sociable and while they do not need as much exercise as Springer Spaniels, they do not always react well to being left on their own for long periods. They much prefer human company to other animals and will adapt to an energetic or a relaxed lifestyle. They can be harder than some breeds to housetrain but once settled and maturing, are well-suited to apartments.

All these types of dog needs socializing when young and an owner must be aware that even as they grow older, they often cannot resist their innate traits to chase small animals, including other pets. Generally though, if trained well and observing the points mentioned, they all make fun-loving and enthusiastic pets.

Commands

Restating the earlier post, making sure the basic commands are trained first is by far the best approach with this breed.

1. “Come” is fairly natural and the easiest using rewards, starting in the garden or somewhere else enclosed, using a leash and possibly more human assistance as the distance is increased gradually.
2. “Sit” is easily trained but probably the most important command, as the submissive position and greater control that it instils will be important throughout the terrier’s life.
3. If the first two above have begun to register, then “Stay” is the next most important, particularly because it can be used quite successfully as the warning before any aggression towards other dogs is signalled (see Part II of this post).
4. “Down” or “Lie Down” can also be trained fairly early, and reinforced by gently pushing the dog’s shoulders and/or rear end down as part of the learning process, supported by appropriate rewards and praise as it registers.

After these have all been instilled, then more advanced training can be embarked upon, but it is important that these are got across to the Staffordshire from an early age.

Leash Training

This is vital with such a strong dog, and I make no apology for restating that a chest halter is a must in my experience. No doubt other methods can be tried and may succeed but the halter gives more control and is mopre comfortable fopr your dog. The necks of many smaller dogs can be strong, but the chest, neck and muscle of a Staff are very powerful indeed, and a normal lead will not only be ineffective but also mean high risk if control of your dog is lost outdoors.

It’s a matter of preference about the leash, but I’ve found that using one of the strong nylon ribbon retractable leads was one of the best twenty-pound investments I’ve ever made. By getting the dog used to walking on a short length, when it is shortened it signals to him that he should behave and he doesn’t pull.

If your dog does pull, the halter and leash will quickly assert control. If necessary, you should simply stop walking and make him stay still or even sit befoire you signify that you are willing to continue. The same procedure will work with any jumping if it occurs.

Training a persistent dog not to bite will vary dependent on the individual dog’s characteristics, though age and breed will have a bearing. There are a range of techniques that can be used which will normally succeed if applied patiently and consistently before a muzzle becomes necessary.

Stopping the behavior in the young dog is the ideal, by stopping it developing the play-biting it would do naturally as a puppy. A strong “No” and slight squeeze of its muzzle, without damaging the nose or sense of smell, some of which occurs from high inside the nose, is a starting point which often gets the message across after a relatively short time.

Socializing the young dog as soon as possible and establishing the appropriate behaviors will also prevent problems forming then escalating. Biting other dogs when young is often a territorial and/or fear response so socializing is very useful. By initially leashing all the dogs involved if problems are anticipated, then letting them slowly approach and sniff each other will gradually ease any tension. Stroking all the dogs and letting your dog smell your hand will also help. If any dog is showing signs of imminent aggression, it should be made to sit; failure to do this will show the extent of the problem and it is almost inevitable with some breeds and individual dogs that they will always have to be leashed when around other dogs.

Experienced dog keepers recognise the signs at the very first instant, know their dogs and know that training the keepers themselves to take responsibility is also part of the solution. Occasionally a dog will persist in biting beyond around five months of age, in which case, depending on the specific circumstances, advanced measures will be required.

Dogs are naturally sociable, and if encouraged to socialize with other dogs from early in life, they will not normally develop problematic behaviour. There are exceptions, one of the most common being the natural instinct of rivalry between the same sex of the same breed, for example female German Shepherds, even though there isn’t a male in sight! This type of exception is normal and generally you just avoid putting them together if they haven’t been together from an early age. The terrier groups of dog generally tend to be more difficult with other dogs.

It is natural for dogs to enjoy rough knockabouts and play-biting with other dogs. Normally this shouldn’t be stopped unless there are signs of more serious biting developing, in which case the dogs should be separated quickly.

Problems tend to arise with older dogs that have not had as much contact with other dogs as perhaps they should. In these cases their territorial instincts often cause them to try and dominate the other dog. The territory in question could be your house, their own “space” or in some circumstances, you. These situations can often involve other factors. They can in most cases be overcome through repeating the experience, observing and carrying out appropriate training based on understanding the whole context. However, if you are watching the dogs as they approach each other, signs of one or both taking dominant postures should alert you to possibilities that you can head off before they develop.

If your dog continuously barks when in the presence of other dogs, in most circumstances a standard training command should stop it. If it continues, over time you will know your dog better and find the right reaction; actually simulating a bark yourself at your dog has been known to work, despite the strange looks it can attract!

Pulling on the leash is a common trait when sighting another dog. The most effective response, as with most leash pulling, is to stop for a few minutes, and if necessary make the dog sit or even lie down before moving on. Repeating this, even if every few steps and many times if necessary, will normally get the message across.

I’ll return to other aspects of socializing dogs in future posts.

Dog agility training is a sport with organized competitions in many countries. It is most appropriate for dogs that have been trained in all the basics from an early age and is good for reinforcing the bond between dog and keeper as well as being good, energetic fun.

Agility equipment for building agility courses includes tunnels, A-frames, hurdles and fences, see-saws, weave poles through which the dog weaves in a specific way to meet competition rules and pause frames on which the dog has to pause while competing.

Training usually starts at an organized club from when the dog is around twelve months old though dogs are not allowed to participate in any of the many forms of competition until at least eighteen months old and older in some cases. Mixed-breed dogs are allowed in some competitions and while some dog breeds are perceived to be more difficult to train for agility competitions, there are so many exceptions to this notion that in reality it appears to be more the case that the dog’s capability is formed from its early training and individual characteristics.

The equipment is so varied, even by its basic type, e.g. collapsible tunnel compared to see-saw, that specific training techniques and exercises are required for each type. Usually the dog will have to be led on a leash initially, quite slowly into, onto or over the obstacle and gently encouraged then rewarded in series of stages, then as its confidence grows, the difficulty increased. Eventually the completion of the task will have to be speeded up in order to compete, as competitions require accuracy, accumulating faults similar to showjumping and then fastest times determine the winner.

Because accuracy is essential while training, this should be the focus of the keeper, then speed can be acquired as experience is gained in competitions.

Dog owners contemplating agility competitions should also be aware that you will have to be fit as well! There is a lot of running near or on a par with the dog as it competes. Great fun though, especially if you can find a dog that is well-suited to showing off its energy and exuberance this way!

Un-neutered Staffordshire Bull Terriers will prove slightly more difficult initially, but the techniques outlined here will work. Points applicable to the training process include:

• It is best to do training with Staffs in short sessions, and when he is most alert, i.e. not shortly after a meal or exercise
• As always, consistency is a must, and with young Staffordshires, a disciplined approach and use of short commands will work, as will positive reinforcement techniques, with “Stop” or “No” accompanying wrong behaviors and rewards plus “Good”,”Good Lad”,”Good Boy”, etc, soon becoming recognized by the dog. Aggression with any dog is no use if training as a pet, and with a Staffordshire is likely to encourage him to return it in kind, if only as a defense measure.

Socializing

Staffordshire Bull Terriers definitely need socializing and making familiar with as many new situations as possible from young, so as to avoid surprising or startling them later and thereby producing an inappropriate reaction.

They are fine with children if socialized from young, but with these and other dogs, supervision of both dogs and children is strongly advised.

Always keep the Staffie on a leash when around other dogs. If there is any sign of imminent aggression, which is usually relatively obvious if alert to the signs but can progress quickly from “walking tall” - ears and tail up, still curious at this stage - to squaring up. By this point any experienced keeper will have sent a “No” signal to the dog, but if not, things are going to get serious when the Staffordshire starts eyeballing the other dog to try and register dominance, then lip curling, growling, snarling and beyond. The keeper must in all circumstances pull the Staff away and ALWAYS reprimand him with a good telling-off and a bit of ignoring for a while. The dog will get the message quite quickly after a few repetitions.

Sit is one of the most useful commands and also one of the easiest to teach. Three reasons for it being useful are:

1. if your dog is in the sitting position, it takes just slightly longer for it to move to another activity and that moment’s delay can be useful, e.g. prior to crossing a road,
2. the sitting position usually means that your dog is focusing on you, ready for the next signal,
3. in a crude form, the sitting position signifies an aspect of submission from your dog, reinforcing that you are the leader.

First get your dog close to you, perhaps initially using a fixed leash if necessary. Then tell him to Sit and apply gentle pressure downwards on the top of his hindquarters, just in front of the tail, at the same time as giving the command. Do not push excessively. If carried out before meals - he’ll start to do this naturally pretty quickly!

Using a small food reward which you move above his head will also usually result your dog naturally sitting down as he lifts his head up. If using rewards for the Sit training, delaying the giving of the reward, though not for too long, will encourage your dog to learn to Sit and Stay until released, which will prove useful.

In addition, telling him to Sit when he is starting to do it anyway, then holding him gently in the Sit position and praising is excellent reinforcement for a young dog.

 
If your dog’s barking and its not clear why, you can quickly identify the type of bark she’s making.

1. Aggressive or warning bark? If it is, is it directed at you or something else? This type is often the one that needs controlling and where you must avoid being manipulated.
2. Baying? This is often some form of signal, more common in specific breeds, like Beagles.
3. Whining? Some signify she’s in pain, others are again intended to manipulate.
4. Yapping? This one’s usually intending to be a nuisance until you meet the dog’s wishes.

The reasons for the barking include:

• She wants your attention; it could be she’s desperate for the toilet, more likely she’s seeking something from you 
• A reaction to someone or something outside; a reaction that you may appreciate sometimes
• Boredom or loneliness

Unless the reasons are simple and the answers are obvious, then to train the dog appropriately needs measured and deliberate responses from you. You are the owner that she depends on. If you don’t try and understand the reason, then you could confuse the dog and create bigger problems later.

If your dog thinks it can get what it wants because it barks at you, it will repeat the process over and over again.

So be aware that if you’ve “given in” before, there is a pattern forming that you probably want to stop.

Dogs need a lot of exercise and that is most often the simple but effective solution to boredom. Loneliness can be more complicated and I’ll return to this and other complexities in future.

For now, a good solution to the dog barking for less obvious reasons is to simply ignore it. Say nothing. Make no eye contact. If necessary, turn away. The dog will usually bark again. Again, do nothing. After a few minutes the dog will often stop because the barking is not having the desired effect.

If it still persists, reach out and hold her muzzle. Hold her collar if necessary; this is sending signals to her. When she’s still and quiet, hold for a few seconds more, then praise her. This is a very effective solution in the majority of cases.

This blog is devoted to dog behavior training; there will soon be a lot more content! If there is some aspect of dog training that interests you, please add your comments.

Jack Russell Terriers and Parson Russell Terriers are very similar dogs, the Parson Russell being taller, from about twelve inches in height. The two breeds’ behavioral characteristics are generally the same:

• Highly energetic, and soon bored
• Tend to yap and bark a lot as they are soon aroused
• More likely to bite than many breeds
• Can be difficult to leash train

Some of these behaviors can be appropriately trained using techniques described in other posts on this site. The standard training practices of being consistent, assertive and not indicating stress to the dog will be required but coupled with persistence and more patience than is often the case with “normal” dog training.

Russell Terriers like a challenge and plenty of exercise and activity, so much so that they do well in advanced training like agility training and the more energetic exhibition activities. This aspect lends more emphasis to the idea of completing basic training as soon as possible with the young dog, but NOT at the expense of losing sdome of the individual dog’s spirit, character and natural exuberance.

One of the most important parts of training the Jack Russell Terrier is to ensure that it is socialized when young with other dogs, pets and children, especially the latter and under supervision with all three. It is worth doing a little teaching of the children too, when a Russell Terrier is around. Teasing the Russell puppy will be risky both immediately and longer-term as if an inappropriate reaction occurs in the dog, which will rapidly become a hard-to-stop habit if not admonished.

A feisty and difficult Russell may require the use of additional training tools such as training collars and leashes, but only usually if it has not been trained properly early enough. As an owner, you will be in the best position to judge when these might be appropriate. However, help is available if required. Jack Russell Terriers and Parson Russell Terriers make great pets, but getting the right training in early is the key.

Playing with your dog has many benefits:

• provides fun, exercise and training opportunities
• uses surplus energy in your dog
• stimulates your dog
• helps your dog develop
• greatly enhances bonding between you and your dog
• considerably benefits health, possibly in you as well as your dog!

Playtime can be as silly as you like. Play is really helpful as it can be used to build on the training you may be trying to accomplish. There are lots of ways of varying playtime with your dog:

• Chasing is a natural activity for a dog so ball or frisbee games, including throwing and hiding, are an obvious choice
• Larger dogs and robust smaller ones enjoy a rough-housing session
• Old socks tied in knots make great toys for throwing
• Most dogs use their sense of smell to differentiate between a child’s ball and their own
• Tickling your dog’s tummy is a great favorite
• Carrying objects while chasing about is enjoyed by many dogs
• Hide and seek, including while out walking

In your garden or backyard you can adapt old stuff to create other ideas:

• Putting planks on blocks to make equipment for your dog to jump over or walk along
• Old children’s slides can be used for dogs to play on, and some dogs will quickly learn to climb the steps as well as the slope
• Old paddling pools can be used with shallow depths of water to put ice or apples in for your dog to retrieve
• Putting rewards or toys under one of a few old sand-buckets, a variation on magic acts, works well with playful dogs

Many of the above activities will create lots of opportunities to build on standard commands and develop various aspects, for example reducing the need for food rewards and replacing them more with praise and affection.
Opportunities for trick training will also be provided within some of the above, creating yet more variation and enjoyment for you and your dog.

Finally, some points worth bearing in mind when playing with your dog:

1. Don’t play for too long as it loses its impact
2. End all play sessions on a positive note by praising and stroking your dog
3. If playing any game of fetch or similar exercises, always get the object back from your dog
4. Young dogs shouldn’t be over-exercised as their bodies are still developing
5. Old dogs will still play but at different speeds and levels to their younger counterparts. Just because your dog is ageing, if it is in reasonable health the fun does not have to stop.

Have fun!

My article on this was published on ezinearticles.com previously, click here to see it.

There is also an earlier one about the Key Principles of Dog Behavior Training, click here for that one.

And for a later one about Dogs Around Horses, click here.

Consistency, persistence, patience, etc. Yep, read it, done it, got the tee-shirt?

Well, repetitive and boring as they sound, these are the main elements of training dogs and several other types of pet. But when you see someone else’s well-behaved dog while you’re still struggling, it’s probably worth a refresher of the things that don’t work in order to remind us all that the things we should be doing, the first three words of this post, are the right approach.

• Violence is a complete no-no, simply because it is going to create a timid pet dog or one that decides to respond in kind and possibly when least expected. Either way, its the end of any credible or rewarding dog-owning relationship.
• Dogs are neither children or adults and do not respond to words like we do. They respond to tones of voice, the keeper’s behavior and gestures. True, one or two words may be a simple command, but it’s the repetition of something they recognise, often in conjunction with a gesture, that they respond to, and not any literal understanding of the command.
• To quote Cesar Milan, dogs live in the “now”, especially young ones; so do the old ones, but they have also got wise to the easy path to get what they want and learned a few simple patterns in your behavior. Hence the need for consistency and recognition on your part to react quickly to communicate to your dog the right behavior has just been carried out successfully.
• Training “sessions”, i.e. in a schedule, are really only for dogs that have progressed into advanced forms of shows and exhibitions, where it may well be almost a way of life. For inexperienced dogs, most dogs as a rule, and certainly puppies, they are picking up signals from you all the time and so training is really achieved through day-to-day interaction between you and your dog, which really reinforces the opening few words above. Addressing particular issues will be helped through some of the suggestions on this site but it is still based on consistency, persistence and patience!

Click here for a free 6-day email course. It will give you a LOT of information and includes solutions to:

• dogs ignoring commands
• dogs pulling on leashes
• dogs jumping up
• manic barking

and a whole lot more. Or you can click here if you like. It’s well worth a look.

Exercise is a key component of the relationship you have with your dog. Most dogs benefit in lots of ways from a good deal of exercise and hey, it’s good for us as well, right?

So leash training is important. You don’t want your dog to be out of control, pulling you around or suddenly changing direction as and when she feels like it. A walk is also one of the best opportunities to socialize with her own kind and here again some boundaries of behavior are required, which we’ll look at in future.

Most dogs get excited at the sight of the leash as it usually means they are going out. There are exceptions:

• if your dog appears timid around the leash then it might be that walks are associated with it being dragged around. You should be walking at a steady pace to suit you; if you do like a brisk walk, make sure she’s comfortable with it as well.
• if you are not the dog’s first owner, it might be that the leash has been used to reprimand the dog in the past, clearly an absolute no-no but one that could take a while to rebuild her confidence on and around the leash.

Effective ways of reassuring her in non-extreme cases are to re-introduce her to the leash as nothing uncomfortable. You can start by leaving the leash in sight around the house, building up to fastening it to her collar, possibly by brushing her while wrapping it round you wrist or petting her while the collar’s on and the leash is attached.

In some cases, part of confirming that it’s no big deal can be to play a short but not too boisterous game, such as letting her walk dragging the leash around within the yard.

Repeat these things a few times and watch the improvement. There are several aspects referred to in here that we can return to later.

Finally for this post, people often ask what the best form of equipment is. Aside from training aids for specific circumstances, a good-quality collar of leather or webbing and a leash of webbing of a length comfortable for the walk will normally prove best for most dogs. Until next time, enjoy the exercise!

One of the most popular breeds, with several specific types, their easy-going nature make them one of the easiest types of dog to train. They also have high energy levels. For these reasons, as well as making generally good pets, they are used as gundogs, guide dogs and in more specialist areas susch as mountain rescue. As pets they are normally gentle and friendly with people and other dogs. Most of the labrador retriever breed are especially good with children.

In my experience, they can occasionally have sensitive stomachs as very young puppies so some care should be taken in terms of their general feeding and what toys they have to play with. Like other large, active dogs, they need lots of exercise; labrador retrievers especially enjoy swimming. Lack of exercise can lead to boredom and make them inclined to be a little too boisterous at times.

So its important to exercise them and train them as a puppy and through their adolescent stages. They should also be socialized with other dogs from an early stage.

Their naturally positive attitude makes it easier than with some other breeds to control their exuberance with a fairly standard set of commands. They are also enjoy doing tricks, so at a fairly early stage after basic training your training can progress to more complex areas if required.

An additional point about the labrador retriever is that their tightly-knitted coat, as with similar breeds, is prone to shedding, so its worth investing in a good brush. Then more frequent brushing, even daily, helps reduce the amount shed. Care should be taken about brushing matted fur as it is easy to pull the dog’s skin. In terms of labrador behavior and training, it’s worth getting her used to regular brushing from an early stage as a training reinforcement. Lovely dogs, especially if you welcome exercise as well!

Introducing a second dog into your home needs a little care. Initially, in almost all cases, your first dog, as the current incumbent, will make sure that he or she is higher in the pack hierarchy than the “intruder” into the territory. This is perfectly normal and the new dog and you as the owner (and as the alpha) should both be able to get along with it until things settle down.

Some behaviors from your original dog may include fighting, some rough and tumble, possibly taking everything the new dog shows an interest in, including food, and all forms of dominating behaviors such as trying to stand over the new arrival at every opportunity while it establishes the pecking order, or nestling alongside it then when looked at, the first dog deliberately looks away, to signify its superiority.

It is unlikely that the new dog will react too strongly to any of this. Any prospective second dog that takes a prolonged and/or violent exception to this is going to give you problems and you might wish to reconsider your plan in some instances if the dog behavior training actions described below are also clearly failing.

The actions you should take to help ease the new introduction include:

• Separate the dogs for a little while, e.g. in different rooms. They will each know the other is there through their sense of smell. This gives them space and a little time to acclimatise to the new situation.
• Treat both dogs equally when they do meet. Favour neither of them over the other and this sends them both the right signals both immediately and for the short-term while they get used to each other.
• Take them separately for walks if necessary for a short period, observing the same practice with each while the other can see how his “rival” is treated.
• Use separate bowls of food and water for each dog, but give your original dog hers first, reinforcing her position.

By following the above guidelines, after a relatively short time they will settle into a routine and any competition that occurs will be relatively minor as they sort it out between themselves. It is advisable not to leave them both together unobserved for a little while, so that any friction doesn’t escalate but generally, don’t get involved or over-react unless there is a very clear problem. Eventually, they’ll become friendly with each other and even though their rank in their own hierarchy might change over time, the preparation outlined above will normally work well.

Chewing is one of the most natural things for your dog to do. Destructive dog chewing is the problem, especially when it’s our stuff that she’s developing a taste for!

Destructive chewing can often signify underexercise, boredom or loneliness. Exercise has a part to play in all of these, but it doesn’t solve the problem quickly. Really she has to be taught not to chew the wrong things and to stick to her own stuff.

Prevention is the first step:

• Keep all the tempting objects that you can out of harm’s way, and be careful you don’t get reminded the hard way that she can jump or reach up to table edges.
• In effect, especially with puppies, you need to “dog-proof” some areas of your home.
• Books, glasses, garbage, remote controls are all nice and crunchy for those sharp teeth.

Above all, make it clear which things can be chewed (her toys or dog chews) and which things are off-limits.

Giving your dog cast-off clothes, towels, slippers or shoes is going to confuse her and cost you both money to replace the item and time in reinforcing the rights and wrongs for her.

Focus her attention on her own toys. The younger she is, the more toys she might need. Keeping one or more toys in reserve and rotating them say every couple of days can help as it makes some variety, especially with a younger dog.

Try not to leave her on her own for too long if you are at home. Play with her and through this you can keep watch for any problem behavior.

It’s fairly certain that at some point she will chew something she shouldn’t. At that point a loud interrupting noise such as a clap of your hand or a firm vocal sound that she recognises as one of the telling-off type will stop her for a moment. Then by giving her one of her own toys or a dog chew quickly, and praising her when she reacts positively to the new item, will reinforce which of the dog chewing behaviors are acceptable to you.

Repeating this process as each incident occurs should solve destructive dog chewing fairly quickly.

Different owners take different approaches to the classic situation of dogs begging for food. Some owners allow it, others don’t, but I suspect that the majority of owners have found it a problem at some point.

It is understandable but bad practice to allow your dog to beg for food while you are eating, with a few aspects of it listed here:

• By not allowing it from the beginning the problem would be avoided but anyone reading this has probably missed that opportunity - your dog’s behavior includes begging for food and you want to do something about it. Using treats as a reward is not going to work!
• The scent of food is a driver of your dog’s natural behavior; human’s food is not necessarily the right balance for a good dog diet in any case.
• You need to be the alpha, the established leader, in your dog’s natural “pack” mentality. This applies to all aspects of training and particularly here. Food is a key area in alpha behavior - the leader eats first and gets the best bits. So a part of any solution is to only feed your dog its normal food, after you have eaten, ideally with a break between your eating and hers, and in a separate area from where you usually eat.
• You must be absolutely consistent in your behavior about food with your dog. She only eats when you allow it. Making her sit before you present her with any food is a good reinforcing part of the training process.

Standard commands such as “sit” might work but not usually at the beginning and will also have to be reinforced, at least initially, with other measures, in a roughly ascending order of seriousness:

• Making sure she sits away from the table as a minimum
• Train her to go to her own area
• Put the dog on a leash and tie it to something distant from where you are eating
• Put her in another room while you eat

With persistence, consistency on your part and some time and patience, these measures should break the bad habit.

One remedy to your dog showing alpha tendencies is to put your face close to your dog’s, preferably by leaning over it, providing of course that there isn’t a biting problem. You can then simulate growls, barks or even shout if necessary. This may not work the first time, but over time the dog will recognise this as alpha behavior similar to the type of contest that occurs in dog packs.

A common exhibition of alpha dog behavior is jumping at you. The dog is trying to get close to your face, and it may not be alpha behavior - it could just be seeking your attention. Whether or not you suspect this is alpha behavior, the best initial reaction is to make sure that your hands are in front of you and push it down, accompanying it with a “down” command as it drops, and not before. Do not push it forcefully as in mnay instances, the dog will see this as a game to which it will react - playfully for the dog, irritatingly for you! If the problem persists, you should consistently ignore her and if necessary, calmly turn away. When you feel the dog has got the message, to reinforce it you should stoop to its level and let it come to you. You may find it useful to “stare it down” carefully for no more than a few seconds as it reaches you, then praise it. Repeated, these techniques normally work well.

Training your dog to greet you fully when you are at her level, by crouching or kneeling, is good practice, and a very effective reinforcement to numerous training techniques.

Allowing dogs on furniture is not good from several perspectives, but in alpha terms can be seen as a concession, yielding your “ground”, which is going to encourage your dog to try other natural alpha behavior.

Feeding your dog only after you have eaten is a strong alpha signal, see the “dog begging for food” post for a little more explanation.

Most dogs, alpha types included, have a natural fear of being excluded from the pack so ignoring or physically separating her from the “pack”, be that a dog pack or the family, can be used to effect. However, some care is needed depending on the situation. The separation will probably be part of correcting another situation than alpha issues alone.

Relatively simply taught as part of leash training but by using the command “Heel” consistently and repetitively to the same length of leash and position in relation to you, and always on the same side especially when young, it will be effective.

A fixed leash will be best when your dog is young rather than even a fixed length of retractable leash as the latter does not give anything like the same level of quick control, which is made worse by an inexperienced dog.

As with all forms of leash training, if you stop walking when your dog does not comply with the Heel command, then do not move on until he is waiting for you, then you can try again, keeping sessions short and the message will get through.

The key to early success is to stay calm as any scolding or signs of frustration from you will be counter-productive as it is sending the opposite message to many dogs, namely that walking correctly with you usually signifies bad things to your dog.

A further technique for large dogs is to use a food reward held close to your side at the height of your dog’s head to encourage the dog to walk correctly but the reward must only be given for correct behavior; the process must be restarted without the reward being given if your dog is not behaving as required.

Not all owners require their dog to sit before crossing a road or the similar routines, but if you will require it then all of this should be trained together, or in very quick succession while the dog is young to help reinforce each signal to your dog.

Heel should be tried as various speeds as your dog gets used to it, to make sure that the training is effective. Changing direction can also be added in as training progresses.

In the early stages of most advanced training to heel, training the dog to heel while turning left, right or completely around uses treats while on the leash.