dog behavior training

Aggression in dogs is a huge subject due to the variety of behaviors and situations in which it can arise. This post considers two examples of the less severe forms of aggressive dog behavior.

• Food aggression - this can vary in its degree, ranging from not letting anyone near its food while it eats to being very aggressive if she thinks you are going to take it. In the most serious cases, aggression about food isn’t the only aggressive trait, but because eating is one of a dog’s greatest pleasures, its importance can often be the only area in which it exhibits such signs. ”Pack leader” status is inherent in food to a dog, so in mild cases it is important to continue interrupting her eating at various times so that she becomes more comfortable, rather than let the situation develop. In more serious cases the situation can be turned around by a range of actions ranging from adding food while she’s eating, establishing that she gets fed after the family have had their food, through to feeding in stages ensuring that there are interruptions. It can take time so that the training  evolves through each stage.
• Play-biting by an adult dog. Play-biting is natural in a puppy and can usually be overcome most simply by you over-reacting, for example with a squeal then turning away, at the level of the activity at which you wish to set the limit. This is similar to the treatment it would receive from a more dominant puppy when young ….without the normal bite it would receive as well! So it registers what is not acceptable. An adult dog that continues to play-bite has normally missed such correction either by the owner or possibly because it was removed from the litter at too early a stage. Physical force will only encourage her in many cases. The better reaction is to substitute a dog chew or toy. The cold-shoulder treatment is also effective. In the case of slightly more severe biting, a sharp “No” or an appropriate command that she is familiar with should be added. Praise should also be tagged on, but only at the point when it will be clear to her that the praise is for her improved behavior.

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Training a persistent dog not to bite will vary dependent on the individual dog’s characteristics, though age and breed will have a bearing. There are a range of techniques that can be used which will normally succeed if applied patiently and consistently before a muzzle becomes necessary.

Stopping the behavior in the young dog is the ideal, by stopping it developing the play-biting it would do naturally as a puppy. A strong “No” and slight squeeze of its muzzle, without damaging the nose or sense of smell, some of which occurs from high inside the nose, is a starting point which often gets the message across after a relatively short time.

Socializing the young dog as soon as possible and establishing the appropriate behaviors will also prevent problems forming then escalating. Biting other dogs when young is often a territorial and/or fear response so socializing is very useful. By initially leashing all the dogs involved if problems are anticipated, then letting them slowly approach and sniff each other will gradually ease any tension. Stroking all the dogs and letting your dog smell your hand will also help. If any dog is showing signs of imminent aggression, it should be made to sit; failure to do this will show the extent of the problem and it is almost inevitable with some breeds and individual dogs that they will always have to be leashed when around other dogs.

Experienced dog keepers recognise the signs at the very first instant, know their dogs and know that training the keepers themselves to take responsibility is also part of the solution. Occasionally a dog will persist in biting beyond around five months of age, in which case, depending on the specific circumstances, advanced measures will be required.